South African Wines:Wineblog #30

“Today, God be Praised, wine was pressed at the Cape for the first time”

– Jan van Riebeeck, February 2, 1659

“Constantia…has healing powers on a disappointed heart”

– Jane Austin, in Sense and Sensibility

When was the last time you overheard someone talk about, “…that excellent South African wine they had last weekend?” If the answer is “seldom”, or “never”, then you are in good company, because most Americans don’t know much about South African wines. The question then, that follows is, “What reason is there to learn anything about a world wine region that has difficult to access wines, which most people really don’t know much about?” The answer is that not only is there plenty of reason to get to know more about South African wines, but there is a lot of misinformation about this diverse compilation of African wine growing regions, and moreover the wines really aren’t as inaccessible as you might think. In addition, there are really compelling reasons to make the wines of South Africa your go to wines for any occasion. I recently returned from a trip to South Africa and am here to say that these wines deserve your attention. The southern Cape Wine districts are among the most bio-diverse in the world, and the microclimates created by the competing influences from the Atlantic and Indian oceans make for unique growing conditions that balance against the hot African summer sun which tend to ripen the grapes in New World fashion.

The Logo for the Dutch East India Trading Company

South African wine production can trace its history back to 1659 and the Dutch East India Trading Company when the company established a Spice Route supply station at the Cape of Good Hope in the South-Western part of Africa for their ships as they passed around the African Cape on their way to and from India and Asia. A Dutch surgeon, Jan van Riebeeck was given the task of running the supply outpost, and in addition to planting the fruit crops to prevent scurvy for the sailors, van Riebeeck planted the first vineyards in Southern Africa. In 1685, then current Cape governor, Simon van der Stel (whom the town of Stellenbosch was named after), founded the first true wine producing estate–Constantia, which later became the world renowned producer of Constantia dessert wine (now resurrected as Vin de Constance). The South African wine industry flourished in the 1800s under British rule, until the 1860s when France forced tariffs (specifically the Cobden-Chevwith tariff) with England that favored wines from France over South Africa.

Cecil John Rhodes

In the late nineteenth century the wine lands of South Africa were devastated by the Phylloxera epidemic, and it was none other than Cecil John Rhodes, the founder of De Beers Diamond and Consolidated Gold Fields Mining Company, and Prime Minister of South Africa who brought Phylloxera resistant, American rootstocks to South Africa and saved the wine industry. The trouble was that South Africa was replanted and over-production ensued.  The quality of the wine was bland, neutral bulk wine, and lots of it.   In 1918, the Koöperatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika Bpkt (KWV) was founded by the wine farmers in the region. The KWV controlled the business of wine farming and distribution until the end of Apartheid in the early 1990s.  The trouble was that the policy of producing higher volume, lower quality wine was perpetuated.   It was under the KWV that the Wine of Origin (WO) program was started. The WO is loosely based on the AOC system in France, and its primary function is concerned with accuracy in labeling with respect to geographical regions. The underlying purpose of the WO, however, was to raise the quality of the wine produced and exported.  This scheme is important in its role of protecting both the wine producer and consumer. Production in South Africa over the years has proved that each area of origin lends its own unique character to wine and that certain areas deliver better quality for specific varietal types. Currently in South Africa, single vineyard designated “Estate” wines don’t classify as a designation of geographic origins, but South African wineries can still label wines as “Estate” wines provided that all the grapes were grown and the wine vinified and bottled on the same property.

The wine growing regions of South Africa

The nine South African wine farm geographic regions encompass a wide range of area, ranging from the North and West Cape, but I am going to concentrate on the Southern Cape wine districts of Constantia, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschoek. The historic Constantia estate has briefly been previously mentioned, and the Constantia district encompasses five distinct estates: Groot Constantia, Steenberg, Buitenverwachting, Klein Constantia, and Constantia Uitsig.

Groot Constantia Manor House

Constantia is south of Capetown on the Cape Peninsula which juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. Because of its location, the region receives significant oceanic influences which create a cooling effect that causes a long slow summer ripening period. The soils are a combination of sandstone, loam and granite which give a fair amount of drainage for the vines.

Glen Carlou of the Paarl District

Paarl is the home of the KWV, and the valley is dominated by the Paarl Mountain. The region’s fertile soil and Mediterranean climate (hot Italian, and most New World weather as opposed to the cooler Northern French, Spanish and German  climates) has been used for farming by French Huguenots for orchards, vegetables, and of course vineyards since the 17^thcentury. Two of my favorite wine farms located here are Fairview and Glenn Carlou (which is one of the six New World wineries owned by the Hess Estate).

Typical wine farm Cape Dutch Architecture in Stellenbosch

The famous Stellenbosch wine district is surrounded by the Drakenstein, Papegaaiberg, Simonsberg and Stellenbosch mountains, and has a temperate Mediterranean climate which is moderated by oceanic influences of the nearby False Bay. The soils found there range from hillside decomposed granite to sandy alluvial loam near the Erste River. The town of Stellenbosch has a unique European feel with its wide avenues and cafes and Cape Dutch architecture. Stellenbosch is home to many world class wineries including Jordan (known as Jardin in the USA), Meerlust, Rust en Vrede, Simonsig and Warwick, Waterford Estate.

Boschendal Estate in Franschoek

Franschoek was founded by French Huguenot settlers. The region includes higher elevation vineyards which contribute to slightly cooler summers that can generate higher acidity in their many notable white wines produced there. The region boasts many fantastic restaurants and bed and breakfasts and celebrates its French heritage with many local festivals. One of the most beautiful wine estates, in terms of its Cape Dutch architecture is Boschendal Estate, at one time owned by Cecil J. Rhodes.

Pinotage by Fairview Estate

South African wine farms grow grapes from practically all the internationally known cultivars. All of the five noble grape varietals, in addition to Shiraz, and Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Viognier are grown there. But when I think about South African wines, I think of Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Pinotage was first bred in South Africa in 1925 as a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut at Stellenbosch University. Cinsaut was known at the time in South Africa as Hermitage, hence the name Pinotage. Pinotage proved to be an easy varietal to cultivate, but it was largely ignored by the rest of the world because of its green vegetal flavors, and susceptibility for developing banana and nail polish-acetone flavors. Isoamyl acetate sometimes develops during the vinification process which can lead to a pungency that smells like paint. However, over the past ten years Pinotage has been reexamined as a serious varietal, and has had proper winemaking techniques applied to it, and with proper oak cooperage. Any Pinotage made after 2003 will confuse one’s palate with its desirable characteristics and depth of flavor. To my palate, they taste more like Rhone wines with an interesting earthiness. In addition, it has been proven that the Pinotage varietal contains the highest concentration of antioxidants out of all wine varietals.  Kevin Zraly, in his Windows on the World Wine Course has some specific thoughts on Pinotage that I happen to agree with.  He states that the best producers of Pinotage, “… have vines that are older than fifteen years and are planted in cooler climates, are green harvested so that the per acre yield is very low; have long skin maceration in open fermentation; is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (although I have had delicious Pinotage blended with Shiraz); and is aged for at least ten years.”  The Pinotage in this category can be aged more than twenty years, with tremendous fruit extraction and very harmonious balance that does everything one would hope a top quality wine would be.

Chenin Blanc wine made by Jordan in Stellenbosch

Chenin Blanc (or Steen, as it was known in South Africa until the 1960s) is the most widely planted varietal in the entire country of South Africa. It probably either came with the French Huguenots who initially settled in the Franschoek valley or in cuttings sent to Jan van Riebeck by the Dutch East India Company. The Chenin Blanc varietal provides a fairly neutral substrate for uniquely expressing the terroir in which it is grown and the winemaking techniques by which it is vinified. Chenin Blanc yields large crops in the fertile South African soil, and green harvest techniques are frequently employed to remove excess grape clusters. Chenin Blanc can accommodate some skin contact and maceration which will allow extraction of phenolic compounds that add to the complexity of the wine. Additionally, South African winemakers tend to ferment Chenin Blanc at a lower temperature (52-54 degrees F) than their French counterpart in order to maximize the tropical fruit flavors and aromas that naturally and more vividly come out with cooler fermentation temperatures.

On my trip to South Africa, I tasted wines from many Estates, and as it turns out, many of the world class wines actually do have North American importers, it is simply the wine stores who don’t request the wines because there is such a paucity of demand for these unknown gems. John Hartley, of Happy Holiday tours (www.happyholiday.co.za) took us to Fairview Estate in Paarl for a wine and cheese master tasting.

The goat tower at Fairview Estate

Fairview is known for their incredible Shiraz collection, beginning with the Beacon Shiraz, and progressing through the Eenzaamheid Shiraz, and culminating in their top first press Cyril Back Shiraz (The 2007 Cyril Back was a Decanter magazine Gold medalist in the World Wine Awards). All of the Fairview Shiraz wines display a dense garnet color with intense current and minerality and spice, but not too peppery.

The Jem by Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch

The Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch (no relation to Waterford Irish Crystal) has a beautiful wine cellaring / aging room. We had a wonderful wine and chocolate pairing experience there. Waterford produces many excellent wines, but their flagship is “The Jem”, which is a meritage, heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon, but takes a turn away from Bordeaux by adding Shiraz, Mouvedre, Sangiovese and Barbera. The result is an intensely structured wine that has balance and complexity and a New World mouthfeel.

Karl, Heather, sister and brother in law (Kari and Dan), enjoying a magnum of 1997 Meerlust Rubicon

Another wine highlight was a magnum of the 1997 Meerlust Rubicon that we had at Sevruga Restaurant at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront in Capetown. This wine was another Bordeaux blend with excellent structure, integrated tannins, cassis, and hints of cedar wood. The Meerlust Estate in Stellenbosch has been family owned for eight generations, since 1756. The beautiful winery incidentally was declared a National Heritage Monument in 1987.

South Africa has always been known for the quality of its white wines, and one not to miss is Steenberg Magna Carta 2009 from the Constantia district. A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon, it was a top scoring wine in the Decanter Magazine’s Expert Choice list. The wine displays a multilayered expression of the vineyard’s terroir, and as South Africa’s Platter’s Guide describes, “… it exquisitely balances an oaky richness, sauv’s raciness and sem’s honey-lemon character.” This brilliant offering is truly a benchmark wine for Steenberg.

The Resurrected Vin de Constance in its unusual bottle

One of the most interesting, and celebrated, wines to come from South Africa is Constantia. In 1778, the owner of Constantia Estate, Hendrick Cloete, produced a wine made from a blend of Muscat de Frontigan, Pontac, Muscadel and Chenin Blanc. This wine became a favorite of European kings, such as Frederick the Great, George IV, Louis Philippe, and Napoleon. It also made it into popular culture, being written about in such classic works as Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility, and Charles Dickens’s The Mystery of Edwin Drood. When Phylloxera laid waste to the South African vineyards, Constantia disappeared for almost one hundred years.  It was resurrected in 1980 by Klein Constantia in a dutifully recreated, and delicious, Muscat based version called Vin de Constance.  The 2007 version is arguably the best since its resurrection.  It is copper in color, and exotic in fragrance with notes of citrus, honeysuckle and clove.  It has a strong acid thread with a slight oak backbone, and a fabulously long finish. This wine will age for a generation.  Vin de Constance is widely available in the US and I highly recommend picking some up.

Cape Town under the famous Table Mountain

It is not so easy to travel to South Africa with the purpose of taking in the wine farms of the area. But the wines have a long history that bring forth a little bit of Europe’s complex foray onto the African continent. The specter of Apartheid and subsequent US sanctions against South Africa hid these wines from American consumers for so long, that it is easy to see why they are not on most American wine drinker’s minds. On his deathbed in exile on the island of St. Helena, Napoleon did not ask for Chambertin, or Chateau d’Yquem, he asked for Constantia. Now I can truly see why. Because of the uniqueness of the geography from which they come, the vineyard sustainability practices, and the skill by which the wines are vinified, the wines can compete with any world wine region on their own merits. Couple that with the fact that the US dollar is currently strong against the South African Rand and these very affordable wines are flying under the radar in China and Europe all means that this is a great time to get to know South African wine. That’s all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

Urban Wineries: wineblog #29

How can you buy a $75 bottle of wine for $25? Just remove the label – Malbec Time Blog

The Napa Valley based magazine Wine Spectator recently named a 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir from the winery Kosta Browne, as their wine of the year for 2011.  Kosta Browne wines are well known for their intensity and bold flavors.  The wine I make in my basement has one very important component that I share with the wines from Kosta Browne; neither of us makes wine from grapes that we grow ourselves.  Kosta Browne outsources all of their grapes from vineyards in the Sonoma Coast and the Russian River Valley.  This situation begs the question, “How can a winery achieve a consistent flavor profile if the winemaker doesn’t oversee every step of the winemaking process from rootstock and vineyard cultivation to fermentation and blending?”  A second question is, “If the winery doesn’t have to be at the vineyard, then why can’t quality wineries crop up anywhere in the United States, or beyond, and simply have the grapes trucked in?”  The answer to these and other similar questions may surprise you.

The Kosta Browne story is very interesting, and is fully described by James Laube in the Wine Spectator article (Dec. 31, 2011).  The summary is that two waiters from Santa Rosa, California (Dan Kosta and Michael Browne) began to make wine in their garage with no formal training in winemaking.  Over ten years of trial and error, their skill in making wine, finding the right vineyards to buy the grapes from, and proper marketing for their product, has earned the duo much critical acclaim. Many of their wines have rated in the 90s by various wine related publications, and their accolades have culminated in being named Wine Spectator’s wine of the year.  They recently sold half the winery to Vincraft for $36 million dollars.  Not bad for two guys who started with $1300, a used barrel, an old stemmer-crusher, and a half ton of purchased grapes.

The concept of one vineyard growing grapes for another winery is not new, and in fact is how many of today’s premier California wineries got their start while their own vineyards matured enough to produce quality grapes.  The practice has been around in France for hundreds of years.  Négociants have traditionally purchased grapes from vignerons in various states of finishing (anywhere from grapes alone, to fermented grape must, to a more finished product) and complete the winemaking tasks; barrel aging, bottling and distribution of the wine.  These days, many of the Négociants have evolved to actually owning the vineyards as well.  Here in the United States, the process of separating grape farming from winemaking has always been less structured.  As previously mentioned, it’s usually the situation that wineries sell their grape crops until they have the money to invest in winemaking equipment and mature enough grapes to make the wine.   Opus One Winery is one example.  They would out source from several Napa Valley vineyards (i.e. Hendry Vineyards produced the Petit Verdotvarietal that went into their Bordeaux blend) for the first almost twenty years of the winery’s existence.  

Mauritson Winery in the Dry Creek appelation of Northern Sonoma County

Mauritson Vineyards, in the Dry Creek appellation of northern Sonoma County, is an example of a vineyard who traditionally sold all of their crops to other wineries.  Mauritson now makes many award winning wines, particularly from the Rockpile region.  It took, however, Clay Mauritson, son of the owner Thom Mauritson, who wanted to make wine under their own name.  The word from the winery’s tasting room states that the father told his son, “that is fine, but where are you going to get the grapes?  All of ours are already spoken for.”  Since then, Mauritson has reclaimed approximately 25% of their own stock for the wine produced through their own label.

The Infinite Monkey Theorem Winery in Denver, Colorado

These days’ vineyardless wineries are beginning to pop up all over the place.  One such example in Denver, Colorado is the Infinite Monkey Theorem Winery.  Located in Denver’s Santa Fe Arts district, this urban winery sources grapes from a variety of vineyards in California and the western slope of Colorado.  The stated purpose from their website is, “…to use the best grapes from the highest quality vineyards to process excellent wines in the heart of the city.”  They also believe that these days, “…it is so easy to move harvested grapes in a climate controlled way, that after the harvest, the vineyard and farm bear no relevance to the winemaking process.”  No doubt this sentiment would be loudly disagreed with by vignerons throughout the Old World and the New.

Los Cabos Winery in Cabos San Lucas, Mexico

A second example of this concept is the Los Cabos Winery in Cabos San Lucas, Mexico.  This urban winery consists of a temperature and humidity controlled barrel aging cave in the center of Cabos San Lucas, where the owner barrel ages, blends, bottles and labels his wines.  The outsourced grapes are grown, harvested, crushed, fermented and barreled prior to being shipped to their winery from Napa Valley, Sonoma, and even Argentina.  One draw for their potential customers is the ability to involve the customers in the steps of the bottling process.

Many Sonoma wineries have embraced the concept of urban winery, or at least access to the winery within an urban setting.  This idea is seen at the local level at the square in the heart of Healdsburg in Northern Sonoma County.  There are more than fifty tasting rooms from numerous wineries from the region.  The tasting rooms bring the wines to the people with a new accessibility.  I can speak with firsthand experience at how nice it is to be able to walk from one winery tasting room to the next, then walk to dinner, and walk home to the bed and breakfast.   Seghesio Winery has taken this concept to the next level.  All of their vineyards are located scattered throughout Sonoma and the winery itself is located within the city limits of Healdsburg.

The virtual winery: 90+ Cellars

Another related concept that has been a smashing success is the internet phenom company “90+ wines. “  It is a well known fact that many of the best wineries produce more wine that they want to sell.  The idea relates to the law of supply and demand.  If the demand is high and the supply is low, then the wines can fetch a premium price.  The internet company 90+ wines capitalizes on this concept, and purchases premium wine direct from the wineries at a huge discount.  The wines they buy are high quality and highly rated finished wines, which must have a rated pedigree of 90 or above by reputable rating groups.  Wineries work with this company because they produce more wine than they need or can sell because of recession related slowing in sales.  90+ wines is a virtual winery that sells these wines on condition of anonymity.  They list the region, the grape, the rating, and put their own label on the bottle.  The wine quote at the beginning of this blog came from their website.  In reality, we all should be more concerned with the product in the bottle than with the label outside the bottle.

The success of Kosta Browne has shown the world that one does not need a single entity to control every aspect of the wine growing / winemaking process in order to achieve a high quality wine.  In fact, it can be seen that the success of Kosta Browne has put pressure on the sourced vineyards to constantly improve growing techniques and practices.  This would not have been achievable in years past, and I believe modern winemaking techniques in the New World have elevated everyone’s ability to bring forth a quality product.  They say imitation is the highest form of flattery, and we are sure to see more vineyardless city wineries cropping up in nontraditional urban sites across the country.  I can even foresee a time when conventional wineries open up tasting rooms in cities all over – from Dallas/Ft. Worth to New York City (anywhere there might be access to a larger direct to consumer market).  That would be a great occurrence, and one that would help to cut out the middle man and keep wine pricing under control and maximize accessibility. That is all for now.

 

Cheers,

Karl

The Passionate Wine Drinker: wineblog #28

Karl and Heather in Cambodia

For the things we have to learn before we can do them, we learn by doing them- Aristotle

Tell me and I will forget, show me and I may remember, involve me and I will understand – Confucius

Write drunk, edit sober – Ernest Hemingway

I have been asked before, “Why do I put so much effort in writing these blogs on cellaring and drinking wine?”  It is not my job, and I don’t make any money from writing about the varied aspects of wine culture that interest me.  The answer is that I believe having a passion for something makes me a better person in ways that have nothing to do with drinking wine.  Acting on that passion is what elevates that passion to a higher level.

A wise friend recently asked me if the travel to Asia that I did in college made me a better surgeon today.  I replied at the time something about the study abroad program broadening my horizons, making me a better citizen of the world, and learning and understanding more about the culture that I live in by briefly living outside that culture within a third world structure.  After reflecting on our conversation I realized that these answers were true, but there is a lot more to it, and in fact, it DID make me a better surgeon.   One thing I realized was that the answer can be found in wine.  This friend and his wife are a couple that my wife and I have travelled with several times to the Napa Valley.  That glass of wine we were sharing during that conversation has different meaning to both of us because of our experiences in the area where that wine was created.  One can learn to like wine from drinking it on numerous occasions.  One can also learn all there is to know about the nuts and bolts of winemaking by reading about it in a book. 

Heather and George Hendry at Hendry Vineyards

However, it is a completely different type of education all together when you travel to a winery and spend a couple of hours in the vineyard with the winemaker, and he shows you his approach to root grafting, and to actually chew the grape seeds in your mouth to feel the tannins, and understand when to pick the grapes from one varietal versus a later timeframe for another, and to see the process of wine vinification from the winemakers prospective. 

Barrel tasting at the Del Dotto wine caves

Additionally, when you visit the wine caves from another winery, and sample the wine directly from the barrels, and experience the effect of high toast versus medium toast of the barrel staves on the wine, or compare the same wine that has been exposed to the softer tannin influence of French oak with that which has been in the bolder tannin profile of American Missouri oak.  Or even sat through a wine tasting class in the cask room of another winery, and experience the nuances of a glass of wine by tasting the break out components of straight alcohol, tannins, sugar, malic acid and unfermented grape juice. 

My alma mater: Georgetown University School of Medicine

In Medical School, we spend four years learning all there is to know about how to be a doctor, and then spend several more years in residency, effectively in on-the-job training, in order to really learn how to do the job.  In my mind, any time we go to a new place to learn, whether that place is a study abroad program in Asia, or to the California wine country, we are experiencing on the job training for that particular subject.

Who we are is more than what we do for a living.  The way we interact with others, how we think, what we base our moral compass on, how we develop our own character and integrity, and even how we perform our jobs is based upon the sum total of our experiences in our lives.  Having a passion for something, anything, enriches us so that our entire being adds up to more than the sum of the parts.  Visiting the vineyards, travelling to Asia, or encountering first hand, the origin of one’s passion interjects an intangible amount of knowledge gained from experiential learning, the kind of education which is impossible to extract from a textbook. 

The experiential learning cycle

The dimensions of experiential learning are more analytical and abstract, and should be viewed as a vehicle for personal improvement.   To discount this approach to learning is to take a blue collar approach to self edification, and in my opinion, serves to deprive oneself an element which feeds into the very passion he or she is trying to cultivate.  In other words, life is not a trade school, it is more a “liberal arts” laboratory. The education we undertake for our careers is more than those classes that only directly relate to our particular field.  I believe it is the breadth of our interests and extent of our involvement in those interests which promote the health of our minds.  Support of this can be easily found by googling, The impact of physical and mental activity on cognitive aging and deterioration.  The many articles that pop up in the medical literature have contributed to a growing body of knowledge suggesting that social engagement, intellectual stimulation and physical activity play key roles in maintaining cognitive health and preventing mental decline.

This brings me back to wine, and the original question, “Does a passion for wine make me a better doctor?”  Learning about wine and its surrounding culture for me is an experiential, continuous learning process.  The answer to the question is a resounding “Yes” because it is those things we are passionate about which invigorate our quest for knowledge, and stimulate our brains towards productivity.  Perhaps my varied passions serve to give me more in common with the patients I interact with on a daily basis.  As a doctor my opinion is what’s being sought out, and also my ability to remedy the patient’s present situation.  The way I deliver my assessment and opinion has a direct influence on the trust my patient has in what I say.  The manner by which I have fed my passions comes out through my personal approach in conversing with anyone I encounter on a daily basis.  Anything that can block complacency, whether it is learning a new language, attaining a master’s degree in Shakespearean literature, taking flying lessons, travelling to wine regions, both Old World and New, fends off the inevitable cognitive deterioration that originates in apathy and complacency.  To drink a glass of wine can be enjoyable, but to immerse oneself in the culture of wine can potentially make life more enjoyable and even slow the effects of aging on our brains.  That’s all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

Visiting the Sonoma Wine Road: wineblog #27

Morning fog lifting off the vineyards along the Northern Sonoma County Wine Road

I’m making wine for the consumer, not the wine writers … Americans love fruit forward flavor and a good price. – Jess Jackson

I have some hesitancy towards writing about this area because it is such a great spot to visit, and I almost don’t want to let the secret out.  With the Napa Valley, the cat is already out of the bag.  Napa is wonderful; and those who produce and sell wine there know it, as do the people who live and work in the region.  Some people say that the Northern Sonoma County is like Napa was thirty years ago.  I wouldn’t go that far, because the wineries have taken all the advantages of technical winemaking advances and viticultural practices that winegrowers in Napa have.  They know they make great wine, and for the most part, realize that for all the hype, it is still just fermented grape juice.  They just seem to not be as uptight about it.  In addition, the towns (like Healdsburg and Windsor), are more quaint and fun to be in.  There are still free or nearly free wine tastings, and the close proximity from town to vineyard is such a bonus.  The region is also known for the way big modern wineries are closely intermingled with small artisanal producers and grape farmers.  A great way to tour the region is to follow the Wine Road.

The Northern Sonoma County Wine Road Seal

The Wine Road is an association of wineries and lodgings in Northern Sonoma County (160 wineries and 50 hotels and Bed & Breakfast establishments).  It is not actually one road or single stretch of highway to follow; it is more like following a treasure map throughout the area, which loosely follows the Russian River, and meanders through the different appellations.  It is great to traverse the region and find the great places and “hidden Gems” along the way.  In addition, the Wine Road Association hosts different events and services throughout the year which are very popular.  The largest three events are the “Winter Wineland” in January, the “Barrel tasting” in March, and “A Food and Wine affair” in November.

Map of the Wine Road viticultural areas

The easiest way to understand the northern Sonoma County is through the American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).  The Russian River Valley AVA is the largest in acreage, and most southwestern.  There are around 130 wineries here.  The region for the most part is a low lying plain which extends closest to the Pacific Ocean, and thus receives the most coastal influences like cooler temperatures and morning fog.  This feature makes it ideal for cooler climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The area’s cool climate also tends to make wines with higher acidity and better balance. There are two sub-AVAs within the Russian River Valley.  The first is called Green Valley, and has characteristic Goldrich soils which is the most sought after soil type for growing Pinot Noir.  It is located in the furthest southwest corner of the Russian River Valley.  This is the most coastal area of the northern Sonoma County.  The second is called Chalk Hill, and as its name suggests, consists of chalky volcanic soil.  The AVA can have morning fog which clears to reveal warm afternoons, and is surrounded by cool windy mountain tops.  These geologic features give rise to multiple varied microclimates that create complex mountain Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir with very different structure than those grown in the more coastal regions of the Russian River Valley.

Morning fog in the Dry Creek AVA

The Dry Creek Valley AVA is home to around 81 wineries.  Dry Creek has low rolling hills, foggy mornings and warm days and it is in this AVA where Zinfandel is king.  The region has a patchwork of soil types such as Yolo, Manzanita and Cortina, which are all extremely well drained, and which lends itself to the varied flavor profiles for the Zinfandel grown there.  Dry Creek also has one sub AVA called Rockpile. 

Map of the Rockpile sub-AVA in Dry Creek

The Rockpile AVA is the northern most region of Dry Creek, and is located just north and above Lake Sonoma.  All of the vineyards are at an elevation between 800 – 2000 feet above sea level.  The lake creates a temperature inversion which keeps fog away from the vineyards, so the grapes bask in warm sun all day.  This region is not a tourist destination, because the landscape is harsh and unrelenting.  The term rockpile describes the soil, which is rocky and well drained, and the effect in the vineyards are Zinfandel berries that are smaller, with thicker skins which enable survival in the rough conditions.  The result is silky wines with powerful flavors and bold tannins that allow long aging.

 

The Alexander Valley AVA

The Alexander Valley AVA contains around 49 wineries.  This is the most western AVA and is known for diverse gravelly soils and hillsides.  The region is sheltered from the influence of the Pacific Ocean by the rolling hills of Dry Creek.  One can find all the Noble grapes grown here.  It is in this region where some of the top award winning Bordeaux blend and Cabernet Sauvignon wines are from.  A characteristic of the wines from this region is a fleshy mouthfeel and a degree of voluptuousness due to the microclimates and its ability to sufficiently ripen the grapes.  “Notes of chocolate” is a descriptor that is often used to describe wines from this region.

Once you visit the Northern Sonoma County you will approach wine from those AVAs differently.  I don’t simply look to see if the grapes were grown in Sonoma.  The AVAs are so diverse in terroirthat I look to see specifically where the grapes came from. 

The world class wines of Verite

For example, as I mentioned, the Alexander Valley AVA is known for big Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends (Meritage).   Proof of this region’s power can be found at Verite, who’s wines have garnered seven perfect 100 scores by Robert Parker over the past decade(and twenty six wines scoring a 95 or above)!  Verite’s Vigneron Pierre Seillan is the one who gives voice to the truth of the soil. He is often quoted on winemaking techniques and the greatness of the region.  A typical Seillan quote is as follows, “Oak in wine should be like a ghost in a Chateau; you sense its presence, but you don’t actually recognize it.”  Some other wineries in Alexander Valley that are good to visit include Lancaster (really high quality estate crafted wines – do the wine tasting in their cave), Stryker Winery(beautiful tasting room), Robert Young Estate Winery (Their benchmark Scion Meritage is a truly complex, outstanding wine) and Garden Creek Winery (a small winery that has beautiful wines.  Reserve the tour and tasting by candlelight). 

We love to visit Silver Oak!

My wife Heather and I have a soft spot for the Alexander Valley Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon.  The winery tour is excellent, and the wine is always delicious and distinctive, and the winery is definitely worth a visit.  Also, they have done a better job than most in holding down their pricing.  Clos Du Bois is one of the mega-wineries of Sonoma (along with Gallo and Kendal – Jackson) that produce over 2 million cases a year.  It is worth stopping by to see how wine is made on a large scale.  They have a Bordeaux blending class where you see the steps that the winemaker goes through when choosing the final blend from the five noble grapes in their meritage.  You also get to blend your own and take home a bottle of your own masterpiece.

Truly exceptional Zinfandel is made in Dry Creek

The iconic American grape is Zinfandel, and for truly exceptional Zins, I look to the valley floor and rolling hills of Dry Creek.  The terroiris ideally suited for growing the varietal. 

A. Raffinelli Winery

The family run A. Raffanelli Winery is nestled in the hills, and is hard to get an appointment, but worth it.  The terraced grounds are beautiful and their Zinfandel is among my very favorite.  Ferrari-Carano Winery also has beautiful gardens, and Michel Schlumberger Winery also has outstanding wines and a great tour and tasting. 

The Rockpile AVA

In terms of the Rockpile AVA, Mauritson Family Winery is the winery with the most acreage of vines planted there.  I love their Rockpile Cemetary Zinfandel. They also have a nice tasting room.  There are several other wineries such as Stryker, Bella Vineyards, Seghesio, Carol Shelton, and JC Cellars that either buy Rockpile grapes from Mauritson, or have vineyards of their own.  The multitude of awards and accolades for the wines from Rockpile speak for themselves.

The Russian River Valley AVA

In general, the Russian River Valley is the region I look to for great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The coastal influences are unique for allowing the production of a more Burgundy style of Pinot.  Having said that, I must admit that my most favorite Zinfandel comes from the Russian River Valley’s Martinelli Winery.  This is still a family owned winery and they have two flagship wines, the Jackass Hill Zinfandel, and the Giuseppe and Luisa Zinfandel.  These are both powerful, high alcohol fruit forward wines made boldly in the New World style.  Other great smaller scale wineries not to miss include Arista Winery, John Tyler Vineyards, Porter Creek Winery (a great place to try biodynamically grown wines from a Demeter certified facility), and Woodenhead.  J Vineyards, an offshoot from Jordan, also makes great Sparkling wine (they have been voted best tasting room in the west by Sunset Magazine).  The Green Valley AVA is a great place to find truly outstanding Pinot Noir, and a few of the award winning Wineries to visit include Iron Horse Vineyards, DeLoach Winery, and Dutton Estate.  Chalk Hill AVA has seen great success with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot wines and Chardonnay.  The Chalk Hill Chardonnays all have been described as having characteristic notes of tropical fruits.  A few of the wineries not to miss include Chalk Hill Estate, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Chateau Felice, and Albini Family Vineyards.

A wine and music festival at the Healdsburg Plaza

For my wife and me, we like to make Healdsburg home base when we visit, because it is the town at the center of it all.  70 miles straight up Highway 101 from San Francisco, it is easy to get to.  From there, it is quick to get to anywhere along the Wine Road.  Many wineries and winery tasting rooms are actually located in town and are easy to walk to.  This is a departure from the towns in Napa Valley where almost all the wineries are located on vast estates.  There are many Inns and Bed & Breakfasts in Healdsburg and the neighboring town of Windsor; too many to list here. 

Honor Mansion is our favorite place to stay in Northern Sonoma

Our favorite place to stay is at the Honor Mansion in Healdsburg.  It has fantastic amenities, beautiful rooms and gardens, and delicious breakfasts.  Often there is a representative from different wineries (sometimes even the winemaker!) presenting their wines to guests at the Inn each evening.  The central town square is within walking distance, and it is a big place for concerts and festivals.  The plaza is surrounded by over twenty separate tasting rooms, and fabulous restaurants. 

Cyrus Restaurant

A few of the places we have eaten at include Cyrus (a Michelin 2 star place of opulence), Ravenous (very unpretentious, but good food), Baci (also excellent food: family run and always goes the extra mile for customer satisfaction), Dry Creek Kitchen (is a Charlie Palmer Restaurant – no corkage fee if you bring a bottle of Sonoma wine in), Willi’s Seafood (Tapas style seafood menu- fantastic lobster roll), and Scopas (reminds Heather of a Manhattan style Bistro).  Also, if you haven’t drunk enough wine throughout the day, Spoonbar in the eco-sheik h2Hotel is great for after hour’s drinks.

All it takes is one visit to get hooked on the charms of Northern Sonoma County.  World class growing regions run the gamut of Old World style food friendly winemaking to New World explosions of in your face Decanter magazine fruit bombs of Cabernet and Zinfandel.  The sleepy lanes through rolling hills of biodynamically grown grapes and bustling large scale wineries will have something to inspire even the savviest connoisseur.  I would like to thank Heather, Steve, Brian, Patrick, Dan, and Beth for giving me great ideas to include in this wine travel blog.  That’s all for now.

 

Cheers,

Karl

Enjoying wine: wineblog #26

The elegant wine and dinner party

Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures – Michael Broadbent

How many times have you been invited to a party where the people are great, the food is tasty and the wine is, well, forgettable?  There is lots of bad wine out there, and for some reason, so many people think that wine for a party or any kind of gathering where there are more than just a handful of people, has to be low cost and low taste.  As my wife, Heather, says, “Bad wine is not worth the calories!”  I have spent considerable time discussing aging wine, picking wine, pairing food and wine, visiting wine regions, and tasting wine.  Now it’s time to talk about enjoying wine.  The topic of enjoying wine is in and of itself too broad; therefore, I believe a discussion on a wine focused dinner party is in order.  The argument can be made that that nice bottle of wine you have been saving can be even more enjoyable when shared with more than just one other person – especially if more than just one person is bringing a special bottle of wine to the occasion.

It is always nice to open a bottle of wine with your spouse, and for the majority of times that I open a bottle, it is with only my wife.  It can be fantastic, however, to open several bottles with a group of wine minded friends, and have an evening where the wine is the star.  There are many ways this can happen, and my job here is not to tell anyone how to throw a wine party, my job is only to describe how my wife and Ithrow a wine party.   The first avenue is through an elegant dinner party.  When we decide to put together a dinner party, the first question we ask ourselves is WHY are we doing this?  Is it to celebrate a holiday (i.e. New Year’s Eve), or a birthday party, or the end of summer or beginning of winter, or is it to welcome a new family into the neighborhood, or say goodbye to another?  Perhaps it is to welcome a new business associate, or it’s a variation on a monthly or biannual dinner party with good friends.  Whatever the reason, it is nice to have a rallying point to center the celebration around.  Inserting thematic undertones into the party can also be fun, but in my experience is not necessary.  More important is to match the type of food and wine to the season you are celebrating in. 

The Big Green Egg is great for smoking foods

For example, grilling season is great to take advantage of in the spring and summer months, and we love to smoke a salmon on our Big Green Egg smoker for dinner parties in that time of the year.  For us, the quintessential item for pulling off an elegant dinner party is to properly match each course with the right wine.  It is a rare thing of beauty to enjoy a meal in which the wine enhances each course of the entire meal.  This requires multiple wines to complement multiple dishes, and the best way to accomplish this is to have a dinner party where each couple is responsible for one meal course along with a paired wine for that course. 

The art of properly pairing food and wine can dramatically enhance the dining experience

This can be accomplished with multiple templates, but one that we use is as follows:  champagne with appetizers; unoaked white wine with salad (easy on the vinegar); light red wine (Pinot Noir or Burgundy) with a mushroom based soup, or a Chianti or Barbera d’ Alba with a tomato basil bisque; a hearty red wine with the meat entrée (or a hearty oaked Chardonnay with seafood); and Port or Sauternes with dessert.  We have even had successful dinner parties where every course called for a white wine.  The point is that when properly paired, the sum of the wine and the entrée is greater than either of the parts.  

Natalie MacLean's website is an excellent resource for planning an elegant wine party

Natalie MacLean is an author and writer on all things related to wine, who’s website NatDecants (www.nataliemaclean.com) is an excellent resource for throwing the perfectly paired dinner party.  Her website has ratings for wines at all price points and fantastic pairing suggestions, and even great recipes.  Another not so subtle secret is to pair the style of the wine with the origin of the food.  In other words, match Italian food with Italian wine (Even Northern Italian food with Northern Italian wine).  An example of a past dinner party menu we had that still brings fond memories is as follows: 

Appetizer:  mini crab cakes, assorted cheeses – Italian sparkling wine, Asami Dei Casel Valdobbiadene Prosecco 2005.

Salad:  mixed greens with crumbled gorgonzola and pine nuts (no vinegar based salad dressing) – New Zealand, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2006                                                                

Soup:  mushroom and gorgonzola – French Burgundy, Premier Cru Domaine Nuits Les St. Georges 1998.

Entrée:  Beef Wellington with oyster mushroom pate’ – Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley Silver Oak 1997.

Dessert:  Crème Brule’ – German dessert Riesling, Selback-Oster Beerenauslese 2003.

My wife and I also love to host dinner parties where the wine is the star and the food is incidental to the enjoyment of the wine.  Heavy appetizers that are simple but tasty and don’t overpower the wine are the standard.  In this setting we have found that a theme to the party greatly adds to the enjoyment of the evening.  Thematic parties enable the participants to explore the world of wine in a unique and exciting way.  I have listed below a series of themes for wine parties that we have hosted through the years:

The wine flight served at our 2006 wine party

The theme for our 2006 wine party was a bottle of wine worth $100 or greater.  

The theme for our 2007 wine party was a bottle of wine aged at least 15 years (1992 at the time).

The theme for our 2008 wine party was a bottle of wine rated a 95 or greater by an accredited rating source.

The theme for our 2009 wine party was a bottle that upholds the spirit of the party.

The theme for our 2010 wine party was a bottle of vintage wine (Vintage wine as rated by the winery or particular appellation from where the wine is from).

The theme for our 2011 wine party was a bottle of iconic wine unmistakably representative in its highest expression of the grape, region and terroir.

Obviously there can be variations on the aforementioned themes, and many other themes not mentioned.  One other unique aspects of a wine party like these are when the wines are tasted blind.  We have the participants present their offering in a decanter or bagged bottle, only to be unveiled at a later point in the party.  Score cards are used to enable the taster to focus on the unique attributes of the wine.  I believe that if a person can break down the components of the wine into their basic attributes without the pretense of the name on the bottle, the taster can improve his or her own ability to understand subtle nuances between grape varietals, vintages, and wineries. Rating and scoring each wine also adds to the fun of the evening.

It is of the utmost compliment for me when someone brings a bottle of high quality or iconic wine to my house to be opened and shared.  It is kind of like an offshoot of the golden rule:  Do unto others as you would have them do to you.  In other words, “Bring wine to others, as you would have them bring wine to you.”  It is great to cellar an excellent bottle of wine until just the right time to open it.  For my wife and me, that time often is in the presence of great friends who happen to have the same ideas about wine.  That is all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

Amarone: wineblog #25

 

Appassimento for grape drying

I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Amarone –
original quote from Hannibal Lecter in the book, the Silence of the Lambs

I was recently chatting with the
wine buyer of a local wine store because I was in the market for some Amarone.
The gentleman showed me a couple of his favorites and then pulled out a 2004
Masi Mazzano Amarone. He told me that another customer recently purchased one of these bottles, but brought back a half drunken bottle saying it was corked.  They tried the bottle in the store, and low and behold, the wine was perfect, not corked at all. He said, “People just don’t understand that Amarone isn’t supposed to taste like regular wine. The raisiny, almondy, thick juice that
coats your mouth is the mark of a great Amarone.” This got me thinking, and hence, the topic for a new wineblog was born.

The Veneto region of Northeast Italy

Amarone is made in the Veneto region of North-Eastern Italy, not too far from Venice. The region has the dubious reputation of being the origin of such high volume, low caliber wines as Riunite, Suave, Ecco Domani and Valpolicella, but the hidden treasure is
Amarone. The technique of making Amarone as we know it today is comparatively new, really since the time of World War II. It received DOC status in 1968 and DOCG status in 2009. The wine style has undergone a sort of renaissance in popularity over the past decade. The primary grapes used are Corvina (40-70%), Rondinella (20-40%), and Molinara (5-25%). Other than being made with unfamiliar grapes, what is it about Amarone that is so unique? The answer is the Recioto technique of using straw mats to air dry the grapes into a manipulated state to create something unique.

Although the technique had a rebirth in the mid 20^th century, Recioto winemaking have traceable roots to Ancient Greek and Roman times when wines were made sweeter and with  alcohol to preserve and stabilize wine before the existence of proper glass bottles and cork enclosures. The oldest account of dried grape wine is the “Cypriot Manna” wine described in 800BC by the Greek poet Hesiod. Additionally, raisin wine, or “Passum wine” was described by Columella in ancient Carthage during the 2^nd century. Gaius Plinio il Vecchio mentioned “Retico” wine in his series of books called the Naturalis Historica. There also exists a 5th century reference from Flavio Cassiodro (consultant of Theodoric the great king of the Ostrogoths), which changed the name of straw mat wines from Retico to Acinatico. In Italy today, wines made in the same style are called “Passito”wines. The traditional role of Italian Recioto straw wines are that of a red dessert wine. The
harvested grapes are laid out on straw mats (graticci) and allowed to dry over a period of months through a process called appasimento.  Specifically, the grapes are harvested in early October, and the drying process lasts until January. During this time the grapes lose approximately 30-40% of their weight, and then are pressed and vinified. For sweet Recioto wines, the fermentation is stopped early when the sugar level is still at around 54 grams/l. For Amarone, the fermentation is allowed to continue until all, or at least, most of the sugar is converted (usually to less than 10gr/l).

appassimento trays

The process of appasimento causes amazing things to happen in Amarone wines. As mentioned, there is a dramatic increase in sugar fermentation without a corresponding increase in
acidity. This results in a more pure form of concentrated fruit extract. The density of Amarone makes it the ultimate reduction wine. Amarone alcohol content, by Italian regulation must be at least 14%, but in actuality is usually between 15-18%. When one drinks an Amarone, it is not the sugars that coat your mouth, but the fruit extract. In addition, the appasimento process creates a polymerization of the tannins in the grape skins, which contributes to the overall balance of the finished wine. The technical process of appasimento can sometimes be limited by the humid Italian weather, which creates the tendency for the drying grapes to be affected by Botrytis.  Botrytis is always minimized, but sometimes, depending on the winemaker’s preference, it can add either positive or negative attributes to the final product. Over the past decade, this potential problem is minimized by climate and humidity control within the winemaking setting.

Recioto dessert wine uses grapes dried with the appasimento technique

Amarone is thought to have been accidently discovered when someone left a barrel of fermenting Recioto unattended for too long, and the yeasts continued to ferment the wine to a dry
state. The question is, what makes this wine different from any other big red wine? For starters, Amarone is densely concentrated and deeply colored. The almond and dried fruit flavors are present, but there is so much more. The Amarone style spectrum can range from slightly sweet and syrupy, to more of a dried fruit, raisin quality, with even a tarry, resin like structure. There is a glycerin quality that gives the wine a distinct and unique mouthfeel. Aged Amarone is a wine not to be missed, but to try whenever the opportunity arises. There is a melding of cherry syrup, coffee, leather, almonds, tar and spice. The glycerin richness coats the palate like nectar.

Masi Winery in the Veneto region

Sandro Boscaini, the technical wine director of Masi states it well when he says, “…No other wine is so positively affected by the hand of man.” Amarone almost behaves like a dessert wine without the sweetness.

The style of Amarone varies widely
from winemaker to winemaker. Even though, geologically speaking, a silty, sandy
soil with influences of clay and calcerous debris dominate the terroir
throughout the Veneto region, there is a difference in whether the vineyards
are located in the southern plains, or in the surrounding hillsides. Amarone
made at higher elevations usually results in more powerful, fruity and tannic
wines, with greater ageing ability. The wines produced at lower elevation
wineries tend to have more humidity affecting the winemaking process, and
generally will show more notes of botrytis, glycerol richness, syrup, smokiness
and possibly rounder tannins. All Amarone is fermented in stainless steel, but
some winemakers will age the wine in old oak barrels, which allow for some
slight oxidation, giving an almost maderized, nutty flavor with less color and
tannin. Examples of this approach come from Masi, Corte’ Saint Alda, Allegrini,
Tedeschi, Tenuta, Saint’ Antonio, and Quintarelli.

Barriques used for Amarone aging

The newer technique is to have shorter aging in small French Barriques. This imparts more tannin, more color and more density to achieve a more youthful, international style.
Winemakers who produce wine in this more approachable style include Bertrani, Tommasi, Bolla, Le Ragose, Le Salette and Accordini. Some critics say that the former style is the more true Amarone style than the latter. The controversy exists that Amarone is in danger of becoming a victim of its own success. The
characteristic creativity by Italian wine makers is making the ability for a stable, well defined, clearly recognizable model for Amarone much more difficult to exist.

The stellar 1995 Amarone vintage

One key to Amarone’s increase in popularity occurred after the 1995 vintage. Richard Baudains in Decanter Magazine described the vintage in the following way. “…the 1995 vintage represented a turning point in the renaissance of Amarone. It was a small vintage, but although the harvest was down 30%, the quality of the fruit was so good and demand such that production leapt to an all time record of two million bottles.”

Quintarelli Giuseppe Amarone della Valpolicella classico with its hand written labels. Its current price is around $450 a bottle!

Joseph Bastianich, in his book Vino Italiano, further describes the success via Quintarelli Amarone. He says, “It’s rare to find a red wine anywhere in the world that combines power and complexity the way Quintarelli does. It is only made in exceptional vintages, such as the 1995, and holds on to a youthful energy, keeping you guessing and grasping for descriptors, wondering how all those seemingly divergent flavors found their way into one bottle.”

Masi Mazzano Amarone

Amarone represents a breath of fresh air to high priced Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello, and also the dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon and the monotony of the standardized international taste preferences. I like Amarone because the winemaker uses a different method altogether to make wine. Amarone is a meditative wine. Some say it is the cognac for wine drinkers. Because the high alcohol overpowers most meats, it is best drunk slowly with good cheese and excellent conversation. The next time my friend Brian comes over to discuss the mysteries of the universe, it will be over a bottle of Masi Mazzano Amarone. That is all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

The Sommelier: wineblog #24

  

The Sommelier

A wine steward’s job is to know about their list.  It makes no sense not to take advantage of their expertise. – Karen MacNeil (author of The Wine Bible)

Have you ever been to a fancy restaurant and ordered a bottle of wine, only to have a sommelier bring the bottle to the table and open it with ceremony?  If it happened did you think to yourself, “How much does this guy’s salary contribute unnecessarily to the cost of this bottle of wine, or to the ultimate meal bill?”  This used to really bother me as simply being an extra expense that contributed little to the ultimate enjoyment of the evening.  The more I learn about wine, the more I realize how much there is to potentially know.  The sommelier is a professional who has dedicated his or her career to the pursuit of knowledge, not only about the wine regions of the world, and how to properly pair different food to different wine, but also to properly picking the wine list, procuring and managing the cellar for one or multiple restaurants, marketing those restaurants, and many other things.  My purpose here is to give a little bit of information about the profession of sommelier, how they gain their insights and a few of their secrets into tasting wine.  In addition, I think it is important to discuss how the advent of the designation of Master Sommelier, as it exists today is improving the level of restaurants across the country.

Rajat Parr

Rajat Parr, the sommelier for the restaurants, Michael Mina and RN74, both in San Francisco is famous for his discriminating palate.  Frequently, diners will come in to the restaurant with a half drunk bottle of some obscure Old World wine, and with his discriminating nose, tongue, and fund of knowledge, can rattle off not only the grape and the country of origin, but the specific region down to the smallest parcel of vineyard and even the year the vintage was grown in! So how is it possible for anyone to taste a wine and be able to pull out of the air, a 1998 Volnay Burgundy from the Lafarge Clos des Chenes winery?  Aside from sampling thousands of glasses of wine, there is actually a training course for Sommeliers.

Emblem for the Court of Master Sommeliers

The Court of Master Sommeliers was established in the United Kingdom in 1969 and in the United States in 1977. This program for sommeliers is composed of four rigorous levels of increasingly intensive coursework and examination, culminating in the final step – the Master Sommelier Diploma exam.   This education in the business of beverages encompasses three primary areas:   1) practical restaurant service and salesmanship; 2) acquiring an encyclopedic and intimate knowledge on all world wine regions and grape cultivation, including all of the world’s wine laws, knowledge on aperitifs, spirits, liqueurs, beers, and even cigars; and 3) a proficiency in wine tasting, which means a demonstrated ability to discuss wine aromas, flavor assessment, wine structure, climate characteristics for the particular grape varietal, country and appellation of origin, and even vintage for the particular varietal.  This is way beyond guessing whether the wine is a Merlot or a Barbaresco.  Each level must be successfully completed before an invitation to enter into the next level, and each step adds progressive difficulty of examination in general beverage questions (both multiple choice and essay), abilities in service (i.e., the ability to evenly pour a magnum bottle into thirteen glasses, or proper food and wine pairing), and discrimination in blind wine tasting (identifying all the important characteristics from two glasses of wine, to six glasses, etc.)   A candidate may not call themselves a sommelier until passing the second level (Certified Sommelier certificate).  A passing grade is 60% for the first three levels, and 75% for the Master Sommelier Diploma.  More statistics:  On average, only 25% pass the third level (Advanced Sommelier Certificate), and the fourth level generally passes between 2 -10% each year.  To put this into perspective, only 169 persons have earned the title of Master Sommelier since the Court began in 1969!  It is staggering to read about the vast amount of information required to know.

Current world champion sommelier Gerard Basset

There is even a competition for World’s Best Sommelier which is held every two or three years.  This is always a two day competition of written and practical exams, service roles, and tasting of wines and spirits.  The current champion is an Englishman named Gerard Basset.

The difference between attaining this diploma and that of any other diploma or degree of a professional nature is the requirement for an innately discriminating palate.  For most people, it doesn’t matter how many glasses of wine a person tries, the ability to distinguish grape varietal, appellation and country of origin, soil type from a given vineyard, and vintage of a particular wine from the same wine from another vintage of growth, is a natural ability that cannot be taught.

Jordan MacKay’s book, Secrets of the Sommeliers

Celebrity Sommelier Rajat Parr, in Jordan MacKay’s book,  ”Secrets of the Sommeliers”, discusses in detail his approach to blind wine tasting.

Truly improving one’s ability to discern wine characteristics begins with blind wine tasting

He states, “Good tasters… must have a detailed mental data base of all the classic grape varieties, including where they are grown and how they tend to taste and smell in each place…  The variety will become the foundation of your analysis of the wine.  Occasionally, the provenance of a wine may express itself more loudly than grape variety.  For example, some wines scream Italian, regardless of the grape used to make them, and limestone-based soils occasionally express themselves more adamantly than the variety grown in them.  But great wines express both grape and place.”  Parr goes on to say, “… it’s not enough to register that the grape variety is expressed.  You must consider how it is expressed.  Is (the glass of wine) fruit-forward and juicy, or is it more earthy and savory?  If the expression of the wine is ripe and fruity, why?  The answer may be that it was a great, warm vintage, or that the vineyard has wonderful exposure to the evening sun.  If the expression is dense and supple, you might think the soil was rich in clay.   Understanding a variety includes possessing a sense of how it is expressed in different soils and climates.  That familiarity will be the foundation of your analysis as you layer on considerations of vintage and style of vinification.”

There have always been characteristic smells and tastes which come from different varietals, grown in different soils with different climates.  However, the way each individual perceives these characteristics can be highly personal in how each of us would interpret the multitude of perceptible differences.  In addition, sometimes any given varietal can express itself in a non-traditional way.  I have written down before in a previous wine blog (wineblog #13: tasting wine), some of the most common descriptors identified with various grape varieties.  I want to re-describe just a sampling of these through the eyes of a sommelier, again, with the help of Rajat Parr through his commentary in “Secrets of the Sommeliers”.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon descriptors classically include black current, and black cherry flavors.  When it is picked overripe, the flavors can include jammy notes of plum and blackberry.  If underripe, look for herbaceous hints of bell pepper, tomato, and tobacco leaves.  The latter is seen more in French grown Bordeaux where the maritime climates often struggle to completely ripen the vines.  This also results in younger Bordeauxs having more brutal tannins.  The former descriptors usually are more evident in Napa and Australian Cabs.  Long ripening grapes in warm weather may yield softer, more velvety tannins.  Long aging of a Cabernet can evoke musty and complex wines, with mushroom and forest floor, meat and leather notes.  Parr goes on to say that most New World Cabs have a mouth feel built on the suppleness of alcohol and rounded tannins.

Merlot

Merlot classically can be described as soft and plummy, with floral (violet) and occasionally gaminess.  Sometimes the New World warmth in the vineyard can make Merlot flabby and formless, but there can also be a higher degree of acidity than Cabernet.  This can make the wine very easy to drink, and usually the varietal is bolstered on the shoulders of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc to improve its structure.

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir grown in the Burgundy region of France gives the purest expression of the grape’s identity.  Its color is lighter and brighter than Cabernet, and notes of rhubarb, raspberry, beet, earth, and spice can be conjured in the nose.  Pinot can have a silky texture and higher acidity with bright flavors, but young Pinot sometimes can be austere with hard tannins.  Oregon Pinots often have a similar earthiness to Burgundy, but they will commonly have a higher New World alcohol and fruitiness with looser structure.

Syrah

Syrah can have widely different expression depending on where it is grown.  Syrah grown in cooler climates, such as the Northern Rhone, tastes of black and white pepper, blackberry and leather.  In New World regions, Syrah is much riper, still peppery but with higher alcohol and jammy blackberry and blueberry flavors.  Costal California can produce more of a Rhone style Syrah.  Australian Shiraz is usually ripened to an extreme jamminess, with even higher alcohol.  The peppery flavors can be enhanced, but high alcohol wines tend to pair less well with food, so many sommeliers typically shy away from Australian and some Californian Syrahs/Shirazs.

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo wines often have hints of orange in the color that turns more of a characteristic brick red when aged.  These wines usually have aromatic hints of roses, tar, violets, and earthiness.  Sometimes there can be a note of cherry, which can confuse with Sangiovese, but usually the high degree of acid and tannin give it away as Nebbiolo.  These characteristics can be so overpowering, that young Piedmont wines can be difficult to drink.  The tannins make your mouth feel dry when you drink a good Barolo or Barbaresco.

Training one’s palate to identify varietals, as Parr suggests, must begin and end with the classics.  One must know the Old World wine regions backwards and forward.  In most New World regions, there are no wine laws dictating which grape can be grown in which appellation.  So any given vineyard can grow whatever varietal the winegrower chooses.  Merlot Meritages might taste great from Chile, but they won’t taste like the Merlot based Bordeaux’s from Pomerol.  Any classic region which produces the same type of wine year after year, decade after decade, and in some cases, century after century, tends to have better balance between all of the elements which make the wine great.  That also gives a consistency which can more easily trigger identifying memories of any particular grape variety.  The last point on tasting wine is this:  Take notes on wines that you want to remember.  If one is writing down notes on how a wine smells, how the fruit feels in your mouth, how the tannins impact the back of the throat, how the wine opens up in the glass after a period of time, the taster will not only get better with describing the wine, but the impressions formed will also become clearer and more retrievable, so it becomes easier to re-identify at a later date.  The second reason for taking notes is to assist in remembering the wineries and regions.  It is difficult enough to remember a few of the wineries in Napa, California.  To even have a chance to remember any of the multitudes of wineries across the Old World, writing down the name, vineyard, appellation, varietal, and tasting notes are a necessity.

The restaurant wine list

The considerable skill of wine tasting at a sommeliers level becomes more than a simple parlor trick when the sommelier uses this ability of discrimination to pick a unique wine list to match the food prepared at a high level restaurant.   Sommeliers work behind the scenes, keeping up inventory and constantly tweaking the lists.  Often Sommeliers are writing blogs, magazine articles or other essays for the purpose of educating others.  In many cases, the wine menus of their restaurants will include informative vignettes on particular bottles or regions.  Like most people, I don’t have a friend or neighbor who happens to be a Master Sommelier, so I rely on, more than any other source, the writings of the myriad of sommeliers that have a penchant to write about what they know and like.  The quality of the restaurant sommelier has never been as high as it is today.  In many cases, the reputation of any given restaurant is made not by just the quality of the food, but also of the quality of the wine list, in terms of depth and breadth, and how well it suits the offerings on the plate.  The presentation of the wine at the table is extremely important to some, and the best sommeliers are able to educate their wait staff to very high levels of knowledge and service.

Valentino’s at The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas, Nevada

I can remember a memorable dinner that my wife and I had with one of my partners and his wife at Valentinos, an Italian restaurant at The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas.  Throughout the evening we went through an excellent meal with courses that had been expertly paired with wines of the sommelier’s choice.  The evening ended at 2 am, drinking Grappa in the Venetian’s wine cellar with the sommelier!  This was a memorable night that will never be forgotten.

Wine tasting tips from professional sommeliers can certainly elevate a person’s ability to discriminate specific details in the vinification of a grape.  I write about this in a blog whose overlying mission is cellaring wine because the fundamental point to cellaring wine is to find a superior bottle of wine at the right price point which will improve with age.  Not every bottle can be that iconic wine, representative of terroir and varietal.  But if one can identify those elements which makes one wine great, one wine brilliant, and still another iconic, then perhaps one can identify similar attributes in lesser priced, but equally cellar worthy  wines.  The bottom line for me is this:  It is not my job to be a professional wine taster.  If I was I might not like drinking wine as much.  It is the sommelier’s job to know as much about wine regions, wine service and wine pairings as they can.  I don’t look at the sommelier as someone who is simply trying to sell me a more expensive bottle.  The knowledge they possess if tapped into properly, can improve your dining experience, and also improve and diversify the quality of your own cellar.  That is all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

Wine and Barbecue: wineblog #23

The flavor of a food almost always reveals the quality of a wine and exalts it. In turn, the quality of a wine complements the pleasure of a food and spiritualizes it. – Luigi Veronelli

I love springtime in Colorado.  Some people don’t because of the rain and wind and late snow storms.  I like how quickly everything greens up.  I love the pink and white flowering crab apple trees, and the Radiant Plum trees in blossom.  The chokecherries and other ornamental fruit trees display their best colors and fragrances of the year, and the delicate blossoms of the Cockspur Hawthorns look like snow on green leaves.  The smell of the purple Lilacs fills the air, as well as the familiar smell of freshly cut grass.  Most of all, I love the return to outdoor living and the smells that come from my grill.  I have begun to receive questions about pairing wine with barbecued foods from friends and I thought this is a perfect topic for this next essay.

The first rule about pairing wine with outdoor grilling and barbecue is that there are no hard and fast unbreakable rules.  The advice I give is mostly based on specific attributes of particular wines and how my wife and I prefer their pairing potential with whatever we happen to be cooking.  So take my advice with a grain of salt, and then pour what you want!

My wife and I enjoy drinking wine in the summer while sitting out on the patio with some cheese and crackers.  It may surprise some that our summertime wine of choice is usually white or Rosé and not red.  For me, I feel that hot weather causes red wines to lose their aromas, and seem flabbier with less detectable nuances on the palate.  The acidity found in many white wines can be desirable and wonderful on a hot day or warm evening.  We typically have one primary white wine that we stock our cellar with, that we will emphasize each summer.  Some of our past summer favorites include:  Conundrum from Napa Valley.  This is an unusual white in that it is a proprietary blend of usually Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and sometimes Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Viognier.  Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand is a great wine that always makes me think of pears and citrus.  Wine Spectator magazine has given this wine a 90+ rating for the last seven years in a row!  The Rosé from George Hendry Vineyards in Napa Valley is a fantastic Rosé that will surprise because of its dryness alongside its acidity.  We love the Chenin Blanc Vouvrays from the Loire Valley in France.  In the past we have also enjoyed as our summer white the villages Macon Fuisse white Burgundy which is Chardonnay based. 

Newton Unfiltered, Barrel Fermented Chardonay

This year we are drinking a Newton unfiltered, barrel fermented Chardonnay from Napa Valley.  Other white wines that I have my eye on include the Josef Schmid Pepino, Rocca Bernardo, and the oaky Beringer Alluvian Blanc (a white meritage similar to Conundrum).  These three wines are quite different in character, ranging from light and crisp to mellow, oaky and complex, all in an inexpensive context.  We like to experiment to find a wine that is satisfying in a new way, but familiar enough to open up after work, or on a weekend afternoon.  It may end up that we don’t connect with just one wine and stick with a myriad of offerings.

Remember that most barbecue sauces can be smoky or spicy, more or less sweet, mustard or vinegar based, which can all be challenging for wine pairing.  That is why beer and margaritas go so well at a barbecue.   

Sangria

Sangria is an excellent wine based drink that pairs well with most any type of barbecue.  It is a festive, fruity, effervescent beverage that is fun to drink.  Here is the first recipe I have ever posted:

One bottle red wine (I usually use a merlot, but any nice bottle will do)

One cup brandy (two cups also works well)

Two cups club soda

One half cup orange juice

One sliced lemon, lime, orange, apple, and 1 cup sliced strawberries

Lots of ice

The recipe for Sangria is fairly generic, but I think the brandy gives a good balance of alcohol, fruit and acid backbone, in addition to adding a lot of flavor that can stand up to a spicy rub or barbecue sauce.  I personally like to have minimal sauce on the grilled meats.  Otherwise, beef, pork, chicken or fish tends to all pretty much taste the same.

Zinfandel is a great red wine to pair with barbecued foods

And now for the recommendations for red wine pairings:  Red Zinfandel is an excellent wine for barbecue.  It is a classic American wine for a classic American cooking style, especially for a great American holiday like the 4^th of July.  Zinfandel has bold spicy flavors, usually with great fruit flavors.  My own personal preference is to pair a Zinfandel that contains a lower percent of alcohol over higher, especially if the sauce trends towards the spicier side.  I always feel the alcohol overly accentuates the oils that make spicy food and sauces spicy.  Another great red for barbecued foods is a Syrah / Shiraz.  These wines pair excellently with tomato based sauces that have peppery characteristics.  For Old World wine choices, Chianti and Barbera d’Alba wines have higher acidity which is also great for tomato based barbecue.  Côte Rôtie from the Rhone region of France also works well for the same reason.  Grilled meats without barbecue sauce pair well with an expanded range of wines.  A nice Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage, or even something lighter, like Beaujolais, will work well with burgers and brats.

My own personal preferences gravitate to the white wines for pairing with barbecued foods.  I feel that the crisp, intensely aromatic high acidity whites keep their flavor profile better with the extreme flavors of barbecue sauce.  Off dry Rieslings work well with the sweeter sauces.  I prefer the German and Austrian Rieslings to American or Australian Rieslings.  New World Rieslings tend to be sweeter with higher alcohol than Old World offerings of the same varietal. 

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio

For mustard based barbecue sauces, try a dry white Pinot Grigio.  My favorite is Santa Margherita.  Sauvignon Blancs work well with grilled vegetables and shrimp.  Champagne is actually great with barbecue and grilled foods, especially pork – the saltier the better.  The effervescence, acidity and flavors are an excellent match with grilled meat.  One wine that is often overlooked is Rosé.  These wines are not only good for grilled food; they are great with fruit salads and smoked salmon.  The one wine I really try to steer clear of with barbecue is Chardonnay.  That is, unless you are drinking it as an appetizer with cheese and crackers.

Pairing wine with Mexican food can be tricky

Living in Colorado, we eat a lot of Mexican food.  Mexican food poses special problems for paring with wines.  Mexican basic fare includes refried beans, tortillas, and meat smothered in melted cheese with salsa and hot sauce.  The typical mix with Mexican food is beer, Tequila and Margaritas. The most successful wines paired with Mexican food are those that are fresh, sleek, and crisp with high acidity.  The best wines include Sauvignon Blancs, Pinot Grigio, dry Rieslings and Spanish Albarinos.  Red wines that can pair well include Spanish Riojas, Chiantis, and chilled Beaujolais. 

Be creative with the wine pairings.  Less familiar wines can work great with barbecue and grilled meat.  When smoking baby back ribs, instead of serving a California Zinfandel, try opening a South African Pinotage, or Hungarian Bulls Blood of Ayer, which is an elegant red blend mainly based on the Kélekfrankos grape. 

Alsatian wines are excellent summer barbecue wines

If fish is on the grill, try serving an Alsace Riesling or Gewürztraminer from Eastern France.  Another excellent summer red wine is Carmenere from Chili.  Carmenere pairs well with chicken in red sauces or teriyaki or peppery dishes.  Finally, Southern Italian wines such as Scavigna from the Calabraian growing region pair well with meat in red sauces and even pizza.

The key to pairing wines with summer fare cooked outdoors is to have fun and not over think it.  For the most part stay away from Chardonnay and that big expensive Cabernet you’ve been saving.  There are a lot of great inexpensive wines that make eating meals from the grill more interesting, especially when the food is eaten with family and good friends.  It is always a good idea to match a wine geographically with any type of ethnic cuisine, whether Italian, Spanish, German or whatever.  That is all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

Chilean wine: wineblog #22

This wine should be eaten, for it is much too good to be drunk. – Jonathan Swift (1667-1745)

If I could describe my own interpretation of the perfect bottle of red wine, it would go something like this:  The wine would have excellent color and clarity, with enough balance of the alcohol and acid to give good body and long finish.  The tannin structure would allow for long aging, yet would be soft enough to make the wine approachable even after only a few years.  I would want big, bursting fruit flavors like those found in New World wines, yet still possessing the nuance and complexity which accentuates the terroir that comes from Old World winemaking styles.  I would want this wine to have consistency from year to year so as to make any vintage year as good as any other year. Finally, I would, of course, want this bottle of wine affordable, at a price much lower than what I’m used to paying for any wine that approaches this ideal.  There is a wine growing region that comes closer to making wine in this mold than almost any other region that most of us are familiar with, and that region is Chile.

Chilean wine has been on the upswing in exports to the US, Europe, and Asia in particular, and there are many reasons for this that have nothing to do with this country’s recent notoriety with trapped miner’s rescues, or their massive earthquake last year.  Although technically a New World wine producer, Chile has a winemaking heritage that dates back more than 450 years, when Spanish missionaries first brought vitis vinifera to this sliver of southwestern South America in 1548. The first grapes were the Pais varietal, which was very successful in adapting to Chile’s temperate climate.  Chile’s first wine boom was 100 years later when more and more Spanish migrants clamored for wine.  The 1800’s brought emancipation from Spain, and improved maritime travel.  France became a favored destination for the Chilean population.  French customs and winemaking techniques flourished in Chile.  All of the six noble grapes from France were brought and planted in Chile.  Most people know about the five noble grapes used to make Bordeaux wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot). 

Carmenere: the lost sixth noble grape

 Carménère is also considered a noble grape, and used to be a part of Bordeaux Claret.  In the mid 1880s, Phylloxera wiped out all of the grape vines in Europe.  Chile, in the 1870s in particular, experienced a dramatic increase in wine export because their vines were unaffected by phylloxera.  By the time resistant American root stalks were grafted onto the European vines, all of Carménère was lost, and the varietal was forgotten, even in Chile for 150 years.  Chilean vineyards were never affected by phylloxera, and even though the Carménère varietal continued to thrive in this part of the world (the minimal rainfall helped to persuade phylloxera not to take hold), the grape was mistakenly thought to be a clone of Merlot due to its similar growing characteristics.  Its true identity was discovered in 1994 at Montpellier’s school of Enology, and ever since, Carménère has taken center stage in Chile as its own distinct and unique varietal.

Map of Chile featuring the major wine growing appellations

Chile’s long, narrow country has more than 2,500 miles of coast line, and on average is only 109 miles wide.  There are many distinct climates, from glaciers in the south, desert in the north, ocean to the west, and the 13,000 foot high Andes mountain range along the entire eastern border.  In the center of the country near the capital of Santiago, the perfect grape growing climate exists, which is Mediterranean like: warm days, cool nights, ocean breezes, and morning fog.  There is little rainfall, so the majority of the water comes in the form of drip irrigation from run-off from the snow capped Andes.  This region is also consistent in its stable weather patterns from year to year.  The major red grape varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot, and Syrah, which are all predominantly grown in the Maipo, Rapel, and Colchagua valleys.

Because Chile has had a reputation for making inexpensive, plentiful, low quality wine; it begs the question, “What has changed?”  For starters, there previously existed extremely restrictive laws between the 1930s through the 1970s, where no new vines could be planted and no new technology could be introduced into the country.  

Old Rauli barrels that are now only of historical note

Historically, Chilean wine was fermented and aged in Rauli barrels made from Chilean Beachwood which imparted an unpleasant taste to the wines.  The 1980s brought a renaissance in Chilean winemaking and investment into the wine industry by French, Italian, Spanish and American winemakers.  All Chilean wineries converted to stainless steel fermentation tanks and French Oak barrels.  

Concha Y Toro partnered with the American winery Banfi Vintners in 1987 to create the largest winery in South America

Wineries such as Lafite Rothschild (Los Vascos), William Févre (Févre), Bruno Pats (Aquitania), Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Almaviva), Robert Mondavi (Errazuriz), Quintessa (Veramonte), Antinori (Albis), and O. Fournier (O. Fournier)  all have joint ventures in Chile.  French wine makers have come to Chile to make wine their way – with Chilean grapes.  As a consequence, the number of wineries has expanded from 12 in 1995 to over 100!

That is all well and good, but the real proof of the quality is in the international accolades.  Here is a small list of what Chilean wines have done in the last six years: 

Errazuriz Vinedo Chadwick: winner of the 2004 Berlin Wine tasting Festival

The 2004 Berlin Wine Tasting Festival had 36 experts blind taste test wines from the top wineries from France, Italy and Chile.  First and second place were Chilean wines (Viñedo Chadwick and Sena).  The Berlin wine tasting of 2005 had five Chilean wines in the top seven spots.  The Tokyo Wine Tasting Competition of 2006 had Chilean wines in four of the top five rankings.  

Chilean wine Errazuriz Kai beat out many California cult wines and first growth Bordeauxs in a recent New York wine tasting event

More recently, in May, 2010, a New York wine tasting sponsored by none other than Steven Spurrier of the 1976 French wine tasting that put American wineries on the international map, had Errazuriz KAI, a Chilean Carménère – Cabernet Sauvignon blend, beating out, in order; Opus One, Chateaux Haut-Brion, Chateaux Lafite Rothschild, Gaia Sassicaia, and Napa’s Stags Leap.  Four other Chilean wines placed in the top 9 best wines in that competition.  So, what is the cost of a Chilean wine that beat out famous wines costing $200 -$1,000?  Winesearcher.com had this bottle listed at $80.00, although currently the price has edged up a bit because of its recent great press. 

So in answer to the question, “Where can one find a bottle of wine with an ideal flavor profile, world class balance, structure and complexity?”  Look to Chile. Currently, in not only my opinion, but also in that of many seasoned and trusted wine critics and authors, Chilean wines in the price range of $15 – $25 have no peers on the planet.  My cellar is filling up with Chilean wines.  The amazing fact is that as good as they are they keep getting better!  As my friend, Brian Lindsey says, “There are, as is the case in every region, great, average and terrible wines.”  As good as the wine is getting in Chile; there are also plenty of wines to avoid.  I have not been in the habit of recommending specific wines, but if you stick with the highly rated wines, and also with the wineries with foreign investment and cooperation, your chance of finding a winner goes up significantly.  So the next time you are looking for a good bottle of wine in your favorite wine store, resist that urge to walk down the familiar aisles of US, Australian or French wines, and take a look at Chile.  You just might be surprised.  That’s all for now.

Cheers,

Karl

The Asian Effect: wineblog #21

Sake nakuta

Nan no onore ga

Sakura kana

Without flowing wine, what good to me

are lovely cherry trees in bloom? – 17^th century Haiku

 

The world economy has lately been in down turn mode, and the laws of supply and demand dictate that as demand for premium wine drops, the prices would follow.  As I look at many varied sources for wine buying, I am struck at how seemingly untrue this premise is.  Currently, the prices for top tier wines are pretty much back to their high 2007 level, and the futures costs on 2009 French Bordeaux are through the roof, despite the fact that more consumers in the United Kingdom and across the U.S.A. are opting out of buying wines from this stellar vintage.  Oddly enough, the pricing for quality wines that fall below the “cult status” wines have in fact dropped, sometimes significantly.  There is a disparity in pricing for upper echelon wines when compared to wine at all other price points. This phenomenon is not limited to Bordeaux.  It is being seen with premium wines from Burgundy, Italy, California, Australia, Chile, and across all the major wine producing regions of the world.  How can this be?  Why shouldn’t wine prices drop as with any other item that can be sold on the open market?  The answer is found in the Asian effect.

Many wine exporting nations have been seeking out new markets for their premium products; a strategy that targets countries where wine consumption is a relatively new phenomenon.  The countries in Asia (predominantly comprising China, Taiwan, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, Korea and Singapore) comprise more than two billion people.  This new marketing campaign which has been targeting these countries over the past ten years is working with tremendous success. 

Wine, as a product, has found a new prominence in the Asian market

Part of their success has been in the negociant’s ability to eliminate the 40-80% duty previously applied to all wine and liquor sold in China and Hong Kong.  It has been said that the Chinese are in the midst of a love affair with Bordeaux.  French Bordeaux currently sells more than any other style of wine in China, and there is a reason for this.  Nicholas Pegna of Berry Bros. and Rudd – Hong Kong says, “Bordeaux has been very effective in establishing itself as the wine of prestige over the past twenty years, and it follows that China, as a relatively new market, would look at Bordeaux first.  Bordeaux is easier to understand; there are only two variables, Châteaux and vintage.”

In order to further understand this, there are some cultural factors to consider.  The primary way wine is enjoyed (unless you are North Korea’s Kim Jong Il, who drinks a bottle of first growth Bordeaux with every dinner) in China is during business functions, and celebrations.  The most popular celebrations include weddings, birthdays, the Chinese New Year, and the Mid-Autumn festival. 

The concept of "losing face" can be difficult for the western mind to truly comprehend

There is an element in Asian society of extreme giving so that one may not “lose face” before one’s peers.  “Face” is idiomatically a function of dignity and prestige, although some have said the concept of “face” cannot be completely translated or understood in a western culture.  Huang Shuanfan, in the Journal of Chinese Linguistics, defines “face” as,” … a sense of worth that comes from knowing one’s status, and reflects concern with the congruency between one’s performance or appearance and one’s real worth.”  Brown and Levinson further describe “face” as, “… something that is emotionally invested, and that can be lost, maintained, or enhanced, and must be constantly attended to in interaction.  In general, people cooperate (and assume each other’s cooperation) in maintaining face in interaction, such cooperation being based on the mutual vulnerability of face.”  What this means is that no expense is spared when trying to impress the boss, or the bridegroom’s parents or whomever.  This often translates into giving a gift that is at an unreasonable or non-commensurate level.  It is difficult to exactly understand this, but it is kind of like getting invited to the wedding of a child of someone you work with, and giving a new car as a gift to that child.  The salary structure is different in China, but often that wedding gift is a bottle of Châteaux Lafite-Rothchild. 

2008 Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild

I bring up Lafite specifically because this wine has a particularly memorable Asian success story.  In China, Châteaux Lafite is considered first among firsts.  Prices for this wine have surged so much that it skews the figures encompassing all of the first growth Bordeaux’s.  There are many reasons for this; the name “Lafite” is easy to pronounce to a native Chinese speaker, and it has a known value the world over.  Since the purchase of a $1,000 bottle in China is typically not for one’s own consumption, but rather for gifting, brand recognition is paramount.  An interesting parallel to this relates to Kentucky Fried Chicken.  KFC is extremely popular in China (I have eaten at the KFC just off Tiananmen Square in Beijing.)  Early on, however, the brand got a slow start due to translation errors.  Their slogan “finger lickin’ good” was translated as “so good it makes you bite your fingers off”.  Their prospects initially didn’t look so bright!  Many wine labels are difficult to translate into Chinese, and therefore a new label with an auspicious interpretation and slightly different meaning in Chinese is added. 

The "Dragon Boat" on the label of Chateau Beychevelle

For example, Château Beychevelle is an extremely popular Bordeaux with a picture of a Viking ship on the label.  In China this wine is called “Longchuan, or “dragon boat”.  This is interpreted as a lucky symbol, and serves to further enhance the desirability of the wine.  

close up of the Chinese character for "8" on the 2008 Ch. Lafite

Moreover, 2008 was not a stellar vintage of any of the French Bordeaux.  Châteaux Lafite, in a brilliant marketing move, actually placed the Chinese character for the number “8”, which is a very auspicious number in China, front and center on their bottle label.  The result was the selling out of all of the bottles of Lafite from a vintage that promised to be difficult to sell.

It begs the question, how are American wines comparing to the French, in regards to the Asian markets?  Last year the value of U.S. wine exports to primarily China and Japan jumped 138% (around $100 million).  This represents around 8% of the roughly one billion dollars in wine exports to Asian countries.  The bulk of the exports are top tier Napa Valley Cabernet (more than 95%), but, due to a strong marketing campaign, wines from Washington and Oregon also grew five fold last year in exports to Asia.  

Napa Valley's Quintessa winery

China’s new appreciation of foreign wine also reflects “a nouveau riche mentality that the most expensive must be the best” that is prevalent in China’s booming economy, says Wu Jianxin, owner of the Beijing private wine club QingPing HuiGuan.  “People ask me, ‘What’s the most expensive wine you have?’  “I’ll say Quintessa, about 2,500 Yuan ($366). They’ll say, ‘That’s not expensive enough.'”  This statement is incredible to me when one considers that the average salary in China is $356 per month.  Of course, that wage number has really nothing to do with the staggering new affluence currently found in China.

So why am I even talking about this Asian conundrum, and how does it affect wine buyers in the US?  After all, most of us don’t make it a habit to buy pricey first growth Bordeaux wines.  For starters, it is not just the French Claret that Asian wine buyers are after.  All of the top end California wines are now on the radar across the Pacific.  This obviously has the potential to increase the costs of wine when there are two billion relatively new wine drinkers looking for something great.  I actually see both the good and the bad in this development.  Some bad points include the obvious increase in prices for the top collectible wines.  This has the potential to pull upward pricing for wine near the top and in budget for many US wine drinkers.  It is never good to increase the price of a wine simply for the sake of selling a more expensive product. 

A bottle of counterfeit Ch. Petrus next to the real thing

In addition, there has already been a surge for counterfeit wines.  It isn’t too difficult to make up a new label, especially in a non-western language country, and slap it on any old bottle of wine that says whatever the counterfeiter wants it to say.  As for the good, many wineries have taken it on the chin with the current economic climate and are really in trouble.  Increased demand helps the industry as a whole to remain financially viable.  Also, there are more wineries that want to get a piece of the Asian action, and quality in general will inevitably increase.  In addition, there are not many wines to speak of that come from Asian countries.  No doubt, within a few years we will all be sampling new Asian flared, treasures from the grape that are already being produced.  I have a love of the Orient.  I lived there for a time, met my wife over there, and am confident that within this new market for wine, the positive will greatly over shadow the negative.  That is all for now.

Cheers,

Karl